John and Joe’s Pub CrawlJohn Mercer and Joe Park, accompanied by a friend or two, have spent the last two weeks, or so, traveling between pubs on their bicycles on route from Lands End to John O’Groats. What follows is Joe’s notes on the trip as sent by post to me. I hope a fuller description will be forthcoming as Joe or John recuperates after the trip. John Mercer, J Thoroghgood and myself set off from Manchester to Penzance on 11th June by train. P. Devine (also Seamons Cycling like JT) couldn’t join us as his mother was taken ill. We stayed in the Minalto B&B in Penzance and next morning cycled the 10 miles to Lands End down the A30. We checked in, took the air, and set off for Penzance by the coast road. We cycled to Truro (57 Miles) and stopped at the Truro City Inn. Day 2. We headed for Bude by the coastal route (very up and down and up to 30%). The weather was still good with a lot of cloud. We stayed in the Teeside B&B and were re-acquainted with Richard (Bush Hat) Hopper who had left us saying he had booked a B&B (the same one). Total mileage for the day was 61. Day 3. We oiled our knees and set off for Witheypool, a lumpy 58 miles. We stayed with the Hamiltons (no not those ones) and spent the evening in the village pubs discussing foot and mouth, hunting, the Labour govt., Danish warriors and all manned of things. JM upset a landlady (a Viking) by refusing to leave his shoes in the kitchen where he thought the dozen Jack Russell’s might eat them. The landlady convinced him otherwise. Day 4. On to Chew Stoke where we stayed at the Stoke Inn, a mere 76 miles on. I can’t remember much about this stage so it must have been a cracker. Day 5. On to Ross-on-Wye some 68 miles distant where we stopped at the White House (no not that one) and again regaled ourselves in the local Man of Ross. That afternoon the heavens opened as we were riding along the A40 and we got drenched. Day 6. We dried our bikes and set off for Iron Bridge where we were lucky to get into the Bridge House. Distance recorded 65 miles. After ale, a good meal and some more ale, we bedded down for the night. Day 7. We headed first of all for the Bluntpore Inn in Aston for their great selection of ales and wobbled on to Church Minshull where I set off for Hartford and the two John’s set off for Manchester. My mileage was 60 miles. Day 8. Spent at home for essential duties. Day 9. We met up at the Saracens Head in Warburton and were pleased to be joined by Peter, the mechanic (known as peter in chains) whose mother was in hospital but much better following an operation. JM and I stayed at the Parkers Arms in Newton while JT and PD went on a couple of miles to the YHA in Slaidburn. My mileage was 65. Day 10. Weather improving we set off for Lazenby, 70 miles, in excellent conditions. Caught up with Lawrence who is cycling alone and having 2 days at home in Penrith. Stayed at the wonderful, reasonable Bank Top House and ate at the pub down the road. Day 11. Set off into Dumfries and Galloway and up into Eskdalemuir. The weather was glorious and using suncream for the first time. Stayed at Kirkbrae near the Tushielaw Inn. Excellent B&B and food. Mileage 65. Day 12. Again a nice day and heading for Edinburgh and the Forth Bridge. Tricky navigation until we found the Queensferry Cycleway signs. The bridge was wonderful to cycle across as was the Severn. Stayed at the Crown (Indian) in Cowdenbeath of the Hill of Beath road. 68 Miles. Day 13. Brilliant sunshine and off to Braemar where we stayed at Moorfield House which is wonderful and reasonable. Glenshee was a hard 4-mile climb but we have worse to come. 78 Miles. Day 14. Braemar to Tomatin. 71 Miles. Beautiful countryside around Balmoral but many long hard hills and very hot. Stayed in Glenan Lodge in Tomatin. Good breakfast and Venison Stew for dinner. Partially recovered from the climb up Glenshee we set off from Braemar towards Inverness. After an easy start over to Balmoral we knew we were in for a tough day. Sunny and hot with many stiff climbs. On the cycle track road linking the A93 and A939 we came across ahead on collision between two cars at the summit which was about 3 lanes wide. Two police cars arrived with flashing lights and yet there was no other sign of life as far as the eye could see – surreal. After 71 miles we arrived at the Glenan Lodge, an old hunting lodge in Tomatin. Day 15. Tomatin to Lairg. Up the A9 and cycleways to cross the bridge and Black Isle and on to Lairg. 65 miles an easy day. Stayed in Tiverton in Main Street with a red-headed woman. Several byways link up to form a cycle track along part of the A9. Eventually we had to join the main road and do battle with the heavy traffic to cross Kessock Bridge to the Black Isle where we soon took to the back lanes most of which now seem to be rat runs. The rest of the run to Lairg was relatively easy and we considered going on to the Crask inn, another 15 miles, but it was full and with no other possibilities we stayed in Tiverton B&B with fiery Mrs. Cheetham (even more so when we broke her coffee pot.) Day 16. Lairg to Thurso. A very hard 76 miles head-on into an easterly gale. Very cold and hilly towards the end but a very easy first half. Stayed with Phyllis Yates at 1 Janet Street. A beautiful ride through the glens. We stopped at the Atnahara Inn for morning coffee and on to Bettyhill for a beer and sandwich lunch (a bit like the other 14 days). Then along the coast past Dounreay to Phyllis Yates at 1 Janet Street. (her baggage handler was a Janet Street Porter) Total mileage was 76. Day 17. We had a short 20-mile run into John O’Groats and dipped our toe in the water. Total mileage was 1023. We then rode to Wick and caught the train to Inverness sending our bikes on the van. We stayed the night in Winston B&B. Early next morning we caught the train to Edinburgh and then to Manchester arriving home late afternoon.
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